Years ago, when I was involved in the Great Lakes Fur trade I became very fond of my heavy cowhide moccasins. This type of moccasin was made in Montreal for use by the voyageurs. The cordonniers of Montreal also used this basis pattern to make a high top moccasin called souliers de boeuf. I have altered a set of my heavy cowhide Dyer brand moccasins to this style.
P.S. Alfred Jacob Miller portrays his subjects as wearing pucker toe or Ojibwa style moccasins. These were common in the Great Lakes area and parts east. According to the map on Nativetech.org [http://www.nativetech.org/clothing/moccasin/mocmap.html] pucker toe and center seam moccasins were used by the tribes in the north-east and south-east parts of North America, most tribes west of the Mississippi used a side seam or two piece with a hard sole. Rex Allen Norman in his 1837 sketchbook questions the depiction of pucker toe moccasins by Miller, as does Landry and Chronister in their article about mountain clothing from the Book of Buckskinning Vol.VII. From my study, I believe Miller shows the pucker toe because most of Stewart’s party were French-Canadians. Antoine, Pierre, Auguste and Jean are all described as being French-Canadians or Canadians. Being on a hunting excursion from St. Louis they may have brought clothing and gear from back home rather than trade from the Indians. Even if they had to make new moccasins while on the trip it is reasonable to assume they would follow the pattern of their existing items with which they were familiar and comfortable.