I just realized it was 18 months between my last two posts! Unbelievable. I guess to say I have been busy is an understatement. Early in 2018, I was threatened by my boss with physical violence. The old guy was getting senile from his Parkinson’s disease and he could no longer function rationally during our latest crisis. We had a pipeline break in South Park and several of the crew had differing opinions of how to make the repair, none of which lined up with the “old man”.
After reporting the incident, I was placed on administrative leave for seven weeks( he was too, unbeknownst to me) while HR did an investigation. I was found to have no fault in the incident and told to return to work. He, on the other hand, was apparently told to retire or else. He retired.
Not knowing what to expect from this event, I cashed out some of my investments and purchased some time in my pension plan so I could retire immediately if necessary. I also put my house up for sale. The house sold shortly after I went back to work and I had to be out by Aug 1. I retired effective November 1 and have moved all my belongings to Oklahoma, where I now reside.
After moving, I started building the new shop/office/library I had always dreamed of. I am just now finishing it and am starting to move in. It will take some time to get everything arranged and settled in(“nesting” as Jim Sebastian puts it). I am hoping to get more time to blog here shortly and am planning several adventures for the upcoming months.
Green River 2017
November 4, 2017, Aaron Griggs, Mary Sims, and myself arrived at Green River, Utah around noon. We met up with Ed Bevers, Bill Bailey and Todd “Pete” Peterson. Pete, Mary, and I set up camps at Crystal Geyser while Aaron, Ed & Bill shuttled vehicles. We drove in rain, snow, and cloudy conditions to get here and this afternoon it cleared off and approached 70˚. The desert is a whole different world than the high mountains where we live. Bill, Aaron & Ed returned before dark with supper and we ate, discussed emergency plans, built a short campfire, visited until after dark, and then turned in.
Sunday, November 5, Day One. We were up with the sun and Ed made coffee for us. We packed up, loaded our boats & set off. Mary, Curly, and I are in my 18’ Champlain by Wenonah, Aaron and his two dogs are in an Old Town Solo 119, Ed is paddling solo in a 14’ fiberglass canoe, and Bill & Pete are in a wooden boat with a stern oar and outrigger boat.
We traveled 12 ½ miles to a campsite near Dellenbaugh butte. Mary and I arrived just after 1 o’clock. The others were slowed by a stiff headwind at times. We had a very nice camp with lots of firewood in a stand of cottonwoods.
Monday November 6, Day Two. Up with the sun again. Bill & Pete did a little patching on the boats. We hit the river on another beautiful day with little wind. When we got to the Ruby ranch we saw several ducks and geese. Ed was hunting for waterfowl and when he went to the right of an island the rest of us stayed left so as not to interfere with his chance at a fat goose.
As we were watching two flocks of wild turkeys on the left bank, Ed was getting his fowler ready on a pair of Mallards. They flared off a little too far away and he set his hammer back to half cock and laid it on his packs in the bottom of the canoe. As he laid it down on the packs, it fired from half cock and shot a hole in the starboard bow of his canoe just above the waterline. The shot load put a 3” hole in the fiberglass just forward of the front seat. When the gun went off, I smiled. I was happy that Ed was able to do something I hadn’t accomplished on our previous two trips, i.e. Take a shot at live game. I started to laugh aloud when the turkeys on river left started to gobble and continued to gobble in response to Ed’s shot. When we rounded the island, we met up with Ed in a hurry to land. I asked if he needed help retrieving his game and he asked us all to land with him and he told us the story. He patched the outside with pillow ticking and some of Bill’s tar then we continued down the river. We fought a headwind for the next 9 miles and by the time we got to Three Canyon everyone was tired and ready to make camp. Bill and Pete cooked more beans with rice and venison. While the boys were cooking another party landed and came up to check us out. They were from Seattle and were quite surprised to find a group of 1830’s trappers encamped here. They camped on the sand bar downstream of the Three Canyon creek. We patched the hole in Ed’s canoe with my fiberglass repair kit and his boat is good as new and ready to go. Ed has earned himself a new name courtesy of Bill Bailey; “Keel hole”. We sat around the fire for quite a while after dark.
Tuesday November 7, Day Three. After coffee and a little breakfast, we all headed up canyon. Bill, Pete & Ed stopped to do some shooting. Mary & I explored a slot canyon on the right hand while Aaron continued up canyon. Ed, Bill & Pete tried their hand at fishing and managed to catch a few small Channel Catfish. Mary & I cooked squash, potatoes, & ham for supper.
Wednesday November 8, Day Four. After Bill cooked up the Catfish for breakfast, we headed out early and after paddling six miles, stopped to find some petroglyphs. We hiked more than a mile along the rimrock until we found them.
We launched again and paddled another six miles to Keg Spring Canyon. We hiked in to the camp and set up. Aaron cooked supper and we went to bed around 8 PM. It froze overnight. We were cold and sore throughout the night.
Ed cooked supper of ham & beans with rice and I boiled up some dried fruit. We had a neighbor tonight, a young man from Pinedale, WY. He was attempting to travel the length of the Green and the Colorado rivers on a stand-up paddle board. He joined us around the fire and shared some boiled fruit.
Friday November 10, Day Six. We got up early and carried our stuff out to the river and loaded the boats. We hit the river and after a couple of miles stopped at the river registry.
We stopped to look for the May 16, 1836 Denis Julien inscription and again could not locate it. We continued down the river and around the Bowknot Bend and made camp right before dark on the shelf at mile 61.5. We paddled 17 ½ miles today with three brief stops. As this would be our last night on the river, nobody was in a hurry to bed down, so we sat up by the fire for quite a while. Ed shared a bottle of Tawny port, which was very good! Before we turned in we saw a helicopter fly in and land at a campsite ½ mile downstream at Two Mile Canyon. We never found out what happened but did recognize the boats of the Seattle party as we went by the next morning. Nobody hung any canvas tonight, we just threw down under the stars.
Saturday November 11, Day Seven. Up and on the river early again, we made the trip to Hell Roarin’ Canyon before noon. We made some coffee and went up to look at Denis Julien’s inscription from May 3, 1836.
We continued on down to the take out at Mineral bottom and once again experienced the melancholy feeling of finishing the trip. We loaded our boats and gear on the waiting vehicles, retrieved Ed’s truck from Crystal Geyser and headed home.
This is the third time I have made this trip. Each one has been the same and unique all at once. We met more people on the river than we had ever seen in the past. I would attribute that to the warm fall weather we had this year. Our group of six was very manageable and pleasant to travel with. The varied experience and knowledge of each person brought a strength to our group that would be hard to defeat in any wilderness situation. To use an old phrase: “These are men (and one woman) to ride the river with!” Once again, seven days on the river seemed like a long weekend. I call it “river time”. Time seems to become irrelevant much beyond sunrise and sunset. The days run together, and the experiences are so fine that life seems to change its pace just for us. We had a couple of miscues on this trip; Mary cut her fingers and ……… well, Keel Hole, but all went well and nothing, but good memories remain.
Day One – 6/30/17, Aaron & I left home about 6 pm and drove to Wheatland, WY where we got a room for the night.
Day Two – 7/1/17, We traveled across Wyoming to Billings, MT where we stopped at a Walmart to resupply. We arrived at Ft. Benton at 6 pm, called Mike Nottingham and met him and his wife, Linda in Loma at 7 pm. We set up camp at Wood Bottom [Mile 20], rearranged our gear & settled in for the night.
We paddled 26.5 miles today. We saw Bald eagles, Golden eagles, osprey, northern harriers, many, many mule & whitetail deer, turtles, fish, beaver, fox, pelicans, Canada geese, loons or mergansers, Blue heron, goldfinches, carp and a King Fisher.
At river mile 37.7, we passed an island where Lewis & Clark camped on June 1st, 1805. Before we reached Coal Banks landing we passed under the cables of the Virgelle ferry. We stopped at Coal Banks Landing where we registered and found out we had to pay $4 per day to float the river. We paddled on down to Little Sandy boat camp at mile 46.7 and set up camp about 2 pm. I washed up in the river and felt so much better for it. After the bath and a nap, Aaron caught a painted turtle. We examined it and made some sketches then released him into the river. A family group of 11 landed near us and camped in the next site for the night. Later in the evening we watched a raccoon hunting along the opposite shore across the river.
Day Four – 7/3/17, We paddled 21 miles from Little Sandy to Dark Butte boat camp, mile 68.75. We stopped to visit Jack Munro’s cabin where he lived in the 1870′ & 1880’s, trapping wolves and stealing horses. The movie “The Missouri Breaks” was loosely based on him. We stopped to use the vault toilets at the “hole in the Wall” camp. We met up with another family group of canoers. We had a headwind up until this point in the day. When we made the corner at “Hole in the Wall’ it changed to a tailwind. Upon arriving at camp, we unloaded the canoe, hung up our hammocks and went swimming in the river. Today we saw an oriel, soft shelled turtles, a teal hen with chicks and coyotes hunting the far river bank and calling in the hills above camp. After swimming we took naps in our hammocks. Steamboat rock was above this camp. 2215 miles above St. Louis. It was over 100 degrees today. The swim and the breeze down river felt really good as we rested in the shade of the cottonwood trees. Aaron went on a turtle hunt while I set my tent and studied our maps. We ate a cold supper and turned in early. Day Five – 7/4/17, Independence Day! Today, Tuesday we arose at sunup and made it to Judith Landing by noon. Along the way we heard pheasants crowing and saw some Osprey as we did on Day Three. We saw many crows for the first time, this morning. It was not as hot today and we had a good downstream wind. At Judith Landing, we filled up with water, used the restrooms and paid our river fees. We moved on down the river to Wood Duck boat camp at mile 96. Today was our longest day on the river at 27.25 miles. We had to chase the cows out of camp when we arrived. While we set up camp, a pair of Golden eagles circled us and flew back and forth across the river. We watched a deer on the shore across from us as we had a snack. We jumped in the river to cool off and retired to our hammocks to relax and stay out of the sun. We saw a coyote on the rocks across the river and more deer. We had some freeze-dried lasagna for supper and turned in just before dark. Day Six – 7/5/17, We arose after sunup, made coffee and broke camp. We stopped at the Hagedorn homestead and looked around. It is an amazing site, what with the old building, dishes, bottles and cans. Aaron caught a bull snake that I spotted in one of the sheds. We paddled on down to the McCormick-Stafford ferry and stopped to use the toilets. After only 15.5 miles on the river, we stopped to camp at Two Trees boat camp. While landing, and off-loading our gear, we saw a group of Bighorn sheep ewes and lambs on the far bank. We strung our hammocks and rested through the afternoon heat. After a nap, we went swimming and I found a few rocks to bring home for Mary and many clam shells and even a few live clams. It was very hot today, over 100 degrees, I’m sure. We had a following wind today. The horse flies have been very bad the last two days. I think I have used more insect repellent on this trip than I have in the last two years. We have seen nesting Bald eagles the last two days and have seen more eagles, both Golden and Bald than we can count. Ditto for pelicans, Canada geese, deer and coyotes. I think this trip on the river should be a requirement for AMM membership. This stretch of river from Judith Landing to James Kipp Recreation Area is much the same as it was in the days of Lewis & Clark, Manual Lisa, Kenneth McKenzie, James Kipp, Jim Bridger, Thomas Fitzpatrick, etc., etc. The White Cliffs section is stunning, and similar to the canyons of the Green River, but these Missouri Breaks are the land of the mountain men, the traders and trappers we all try to emulate. To spend a few days here is to educate your soul into the true life of the beaver men. This area is so rich in history as to be overwhelming. Lewis & Clark, the fur trade, mining, steamboats, homesteaders, ranching, rustlers, etc., etc. Day Seven – 7/6/17, we paddled 20 miles today to Lower Woodhawk campground. Upon arrival, we met a couple of BLM workers and visited with them for 30 minutes about the river, the campsites, their maps, etc. After setting up the hammocks I went for a swim. After my swim, I slept in the hammock for a while and Aaron hiked down to the old Nelson Homestead. This site was pretty buggy. In the evening, we had a rain storm which cooled things down quite nicely. It only rained enough to settle the dust and we sat in our hammocks in the rain and enjoyed the cooling effect. We saw a rabbit this evening after the rain and at dark the toads came out of the leaves and we saw several. Aaron caught one of them. Today we saw many deer and Bighorn sheep, crows, King birds and other birds. There were a pair of Northern Harriers teaching their young to fly on the hillside above camp and we watched them for quite some time. There is a large wildfire north of this camp. This morning we could smell the smoke and tonight we can see the plume. We saw at least 4 different groups of sheep today as we paddled along. While traversing a back channel, we startled 3 deer and one of the fawns ran in front of us and jumped into the river and swam across right in front of us. That was pretty cool. There are many willows along the river here and much beaver sign. I saw a buck mule deer in velvet on one of the islands today.
Day Eight – 7/7/17, we paddled 18.25 miles today. We passed the Grand Island on the north side. We arrived at James Kipp Recreation Area a little before 1 pm, loaded our gear on the truck and headed south. Today we saw turkey vultures, many more turtles, deer, crows, geese, ducks, etc.
I am just as guilty as the next guy when it comes to bringing too much stuff to a rendezvous, re-enactment or other historic event. It seems we have so much cool stuff and so little opportunity to use it that it is easy to over pack in the hopes of getting to use our toys during our outings.
There are some modern items that we bring as well. Medical necessities and cameras are the most common. Some rendezvous even allow the use of propane stoves to cook on during a fire ban, rather than cancel their event or force the participants into having cold food during the entire event.
There is one item that I have been seeing way too much of and that is the cell phone. They are everywhere in our daily life and it seems we have gotten so addicted to the damn things that we can’t put them down for a few minutes, let alone a weekend or week long event! I am as guilty as the next guy about cell phone usage, however they are completely inappropriate for any and all historical re-enactment!
The past two years I have taken two wilderness trips for 5-7 days each. During these trips, I have not had a cell phone or any coverage, if we would’ve had one. None of us has missed it. In fact it has been quite the opposite. We have reveled in the fact that we were in the wilderness with only ourselves and each other to rely on. What would we do in an emergency, you might ask? Well, we would do just the same as our fathers and grandfathers would have done. We would’ve handled it!
From this point on, I am committed to leaving as much modern stuff as I can behind, not to over pack my historically correct stuff, and to leave that God Damned cell phone in the car!
I have been intrigued by the wolf eared hat since I first started studying Alfred Jacob Miller’s paintings. They most certainly are a hunter’s hat and an early form of camouflage. I have seen many attempts at re-creating these unique hats and have even tried my hand at it.
The following links have great articles about the hats of the fur trade and delve into the construction and patterns of the hunter’s hoods aka wolf eared hats.
These hats range in style from a true wolf ear to horns and even some that Batman would envy.
However, there is one hat I’ve seen that I really don’t understand or care for. I refer to it as the bunny eared hat. I guess the bunny is one of the most harmless creatures on the prairie and in the mountains so the wearer should be able to sneak up on anything or anyone without raising an alarm. I personally think the wearer looks absolutely foolish, stupid even. But, to each his own. If the shoe fits, lace that bitch up and wear it!!!
When I got married in 1981, we took our honeymoon around Lake Superior. We visited all of the historic sites we could find. At Fort Michilimackinac, we saw the Great Lakes fur trade first hand and watched a man shoot a Northwest trade gun. Out on Mackinaw Island the next day we toured the military post and saw a soldier shoot a flintlock musket. I was absolutely hooked! I had to have a flintlock.
Shortly after we returned home, I bought a Pedersoli Brown Bess Musket in kit form at the Track of the Wolf store in Osseo, Minnesota. This was about the best I could find at the time. NW guns were few and far between and two to three times the price I paid for the Bess. I hunted with the Bess several times. I used it for deer hunting in 1983 and harvested many small game animals with it including a ruffed grouse on the wing!
I used my Bess for re-enactments and target shooting as well. I became part of a voyager re-enactment group and became a pretty good shot with the Bess. Soon I cut off about 10 inches of barrel, installed a few tacks and made a woods runner gun out of it.
As my tastes and interests changed I sold or traded off most all of my muzzleloaders. My Brown Bess was the last one to go. I remember thinking that I was done with black powder shooting and would probably never need or want a muzzleloader again. Live and Learn. I have come full circle and am muzzleloader poor now. Meaning I have so much money invested in muzzleloading firearms that I am so poor, I can’t even pay attention.
Over the last couple of years, I have done an occasional search for Brown Bess’s on the internet. Recently, I found a Bess for sale in Minnesota that looked surprisingly like the one I had sold so many years ago. I contacted the seller and made a purchase. I don’t know if this is my old Bess, but it sure is close. I am really enjoying having the old girl back in my arms again.
In November 2016, I took her with me down the Green River in Utah. I had experimented with some non-toxic shot loads and had her loaded for geese and ducks. I never did take a shot at game on this trip but enjoyed carrying her through the canyon lands!
I look forward to many another trip and adventure with my old Bess. She is a good old gal!!!
Saturday, November 5, 2016, I met Aaron Griggs and Tom Karnuta in Buena Vista, CO at 6:00 AM and we headed west toward Green River, Utah. We arrived at 11:30 AM in time for lunch at Ray’s Tavern before heading out to Crystal Geyser where I set camp while Tom and Aaron staged my truck and trailer at Mineral Bottom, 64 river miles downstream.
Crystal Geyser as seen from the riverbank.
Sunday, we launched from Crystal Geyser around 9 AM and paddled past Dellenbaugh Butte to the San Raphael River.
We landed upstream and searched for a campsite. We found nothing conducive to us as canoe campers and so decided to move on down to Dead Cow Wash. We made camp just before dark and cooked our supper after sunset. Twenty-one miles made for a long day on the river, but it was a good day!
Tom in his solo canoe
Landing at Dead Cow Wash
Day 3, we got up after sun-up, made some coffee and packed up. We launched from Dead Cow Wash and paddled the 4 ½ miles to Three Canyon where we landed and set up camp.
Camp at Three Canyon
My canoe seemed to be leaking a little bit and I needed to wash it off and inspect the bottom. I washed off all the sand and mud and made a careful inspection but I could see nothing glaringly obvious. (After I returned home I found a pinhole through the skin and patched it up with some pine tar.) I made water from the stream with my filter bag, washed out my socks and went for a hike. I hiked and climbed up the first small canyon to the waterfall.
One of the slot Canyons at Three Canyon
When I came back, Tom was making rice. I cooked some deer meat and we ate supper. We talked around the fire until bedtime. We slept warm and well!
Cooking at Three Canyon
Day 4, I heard Tom & Aaron up early. When I got up they were gone. I made water and coffee then walked down to the river where I found the petroglyph again. While I was writing in my journal, Tom came back to camp. I showed him the petroglyph and we found the BLM can with its notebook for those who want to leave their mark today. I left a note about how we were hunting and trapping our way down the Green River.
Tom at the petroglyph at Three Canyon
Another slot canyon at Three Canyon
I went up Three Canyon and hiked/climbed up two side canyons as far as I could. According to Thomas Rampton’s book “Labyrinth Canyon River Guide” the slot canyons at Three Canyon are some of the largest remaining slot canyons accessible to us in Utah. The majority of them were inundated by Lake Powell behind the Glen Canyon Dam. Some of these canyons are less than 50 feet wide at the bottom with walls several hundred feet high. I met up with Tom along the way. After we separated, I hunted my way back to camp and spent some time watching the river go by where Tom joined me upon his return. After supper, a fox barked at us from across the creek.
Day 5, Wednesday, Tom & I made coffee and packed up camp while Aaron pulled his traps. Nothing. We paddled 11 miles today down to Keg Spring Canyon. We looked for the petroglyphs noted on our map but found none.
Aaron and I on the river
We landed at Keg Spring canyon to find very little mud and no water in the stream. This was very disappointing for last year there had been abundant clear water flowing and we were counting on finding water here. It was very apparent that there had been a flood earlier in the year for many places were full of sand and other debris. After setting up camp, Aaron and I went up the canyon and found a couple of pools of stagnant water. We filled the filter bag and brought it back to camp. Aaron set a few traps while Tom & I cooked supper. We had a nice night around the fire.
Camp at Keg Spring Canyon
The drinking pool
Day 6, after coffee and some breakfast, Aaron went to set some more traps while I hiked up Keg Spring Canyon after Tom. We met up and hiked together for a while.
Tom Karnuta in Keg Spring Canyon
Gabe Hanratty in Keg Spring Canyon
After he turned back, I explored the confluence of the two feeder canyons. I climbed a large slope to a shelf and followed it into the right-hand canyon.
Shelf dividing the canyons
The view from the shelf
After I climbed down, I met up with Aaron and we hiked back toward camp until we met up with Tom at the drinking pool. We filled our water bag & took it back to camp for supper.
The River Register
Day 7, we paddled 17 ½ miles today. We stopped at the river register and looked for a Denis Julien script from May 16, 1836. Only one of our two maps listed it and it was very vague as to its location. We fought our way through the willows and tamarisk looking for it but to no avail. A branch swept my eye glasses from my face and I spent 10 minutes looking for them before I finally found them hanging on some of the grasses four feet away from me and three feet off the ground. We paddled around the Bowknot bend and made camp at sunset on the same rock shelf as last year.
Aaron Griggs enjoying a morning pipe.
Day 8, after daybreak we did a little shooting and packed up our camp. We paddled 6 miles to Hell Roaring Canyon where we saw Denis Julien’s inscription from May 3, 1836.
Denis Julian’s Inscription of May 3, 1836
Three more miles of paddling and we were at Mineral Bottom. We left the river at 1:30 PM. This was the first time we had read the time since before we launched 7 days ago! I have never seen a week fly by as fast as it does on the Green River. It seems that one day you are launching your canoe to start a great adventure and the next day the adventure is done and you are on your way home. None of us were ready for the trip to be done and we were all feeling a little melancholy as we drove up the road toward Moab and civilization. We had spent this week without cell phones, internet, twitter, Facebook and didn’t miss it in the least. Just the three of us, the river, and the canyons. We had contact with some people on shore one day and none of us even thought to ask about the outcome of the Presidential election. We truly were living in the moment and nothing outside of the canyons mattered to us at that time.
As can be seen from the pictures we had beautiful weather the entire week. I set up camp at Crystal Geyser in a light shower, but otherwise we had sunshine with highs in the upper 50’s to lower 60’s and we never experienced a frost at night. The moon was waxing and gave us a fantastic night light every evening.
Two Mile Canyon behind the canoe
May 8 – 13, 2016 – I joined 3 men for a canoe trip down the Guadalupe River in south Texas. We all met at the take-out site near Nursery, TX on Sunday, May 8. I brought with me a Red Drum and two Speckled Trout I had caught near Port Aransas and I cooked them on the fire for supper Sunday night along with some pork & beans one of the other guys brought.
Monday, May 9, we shuttled vehicles and Jim Branson brought us up to our put-in site north west of Cuero, TX off of Farm Road 768. We put-in shortly before noon and traveled the river until about 3:30 PM when Henry and I tipped on a snag in some rapids and went for a swim.
We lost some of our gear in the deep water and had to float downstream a couple hundred yards before we could regain our footing and right our canoe. The boys in the other canoe collected some of the floating bags that had gotten away from us. We made camp on a gravel bar in a field of Burdock plants and tried to dry out our gear. In the wreck, I lost the batteries for my CPAP machine and was forced to sleep without it for the next two nights. I also lost my camera and one of my canteens (the full one sank, the empty one floated under the canoe with the rest of my gear). Henry lost his trade gun and his pack basket which held his shooting bag, a couple of pistols (a CVA cap & ball .44 and a .45 Philadelphia derringer), and a brass cup that had quite a bit of sentimental value. He also lost his cellular phone. After we got securely ashore, Cobbler & I paddled back upstream and I floated down through the rapids in my life jacket trying to feel anything of our gear with my feet, but to no avail. The water was too deep and too fast for me to find anything.
At some point on our first day as we were paddling down the Guadalupe River near Cuero, Texas, we passed the place where Alonso De Leon crossed the river when he was exploring south Texas in the 1689. (1) We also passed the crossing of the Chisholm Trail, although both places went by unrecognized. (2) We made about 12 miles before we tipped and decided to make camp.
Our crew consisted of four men on the river and Jim Branson acted as our driver and shuttle coordinator. The river crew included Larry Newbern (Cobbler) from Houston, “Cuz” Tremble from Shiner, Henry Crawford from Lubbock and myself, Gabe Hanratty from the high mountains of Colorado.
Cobbler was 78 years old and had a urostomy pouch on his bladder. Cuz was 60 years old and was having some issues with a slow heartbeat. He had to measure his heartrate several times a day. Henry was 56 and diabetic. He lost his testing supplies in our wreck and so had to take his insulin based on his regular dosage since he was unable to test his blood sugar. I am 56 and use a CPAP machine for sleeping to help alleviate my sleep apnea and take medicine for hypertension. We were the “geriatric” crew of the Guadalupe River!
My canoeing partner, Henry B. Crawford, henceforth known as “Tippecanoe”!
Tuesday, May 10th, we awoke to thick fog and a very heavy dew. The clothes we had left out overnight to dry were as wet as if they had just come out of the river. We stayed on the gravel bar until after noon hoping to get some sun to dry things out. We disembarked around 1 PM and started on down the river. After a couple of hours on the water, Cobbler and Cuz attempted to make a landing across some small rapids at the head of a gravel island and rolled their canoe upstream into the current and took on quite a bit of water. We landed just below the rapids in the backwater eddy and jumped out of our boat and helped pull them ashore. They emptied their canoe and let things dry for an hour or so before we continued downstream. Here we discovered that Cobbler had lost his camera in the spill or he had left it at the previous camp. Either way, we ended up pretty shy on sketches. Which is sad because we saw some beautiful country along the Guadalupe! We paddled 8 miles today and made camp on the high end of a sand bar island under some Cypress trees. During the night, I had a critter climb down out of the Cypress tree at my head and when he found me sleeping there made a huge commotion that woke me up with a WTF!
Wednesday, May 11th, we got up and left the island and paddled downstream about 5 miles until we came to Rocky’s place and made camp. Cuz and Jim had made arrangements beforehand to camp at this site and so we didn’t travel very far today. The Guadalupe is a winding river to be sure. We are traveling generally NW to SE on this river through southern Texas and yet here at Rocky’s the river is flowing straight west. We set up our camp and strung up some clothes lines to hang out our wet gear and managed to get most everything dried out. We had a very nice relaxing day here at Rocky’s. We ate cold food and drank the beer that Jim Branson brought out for us. Jim also brought me one of my extra batteries for my CPAP machine and I got a great night’s sleep. We saw a deer on the far bank of the river and many large gar surfaced as we relaxed along the shore. I did manage to get into some poison Ivy while tying up a clothes line and had to fight with that for the next two weeks.
Thursday, May 12th, we put in from Rocky’s and paddled down to our take out spot. We went about 15 miles in 4 ½ hours. We beached our canoes and carried our gear up to the camp. Jim had picked up our bedrolls and camp gear at Rocky’s in the morning and he brought everything out to the camp soon after we got there. Along with more beer, God bless him!
Friday morning, we loaded up all of our camp gear into Henry’s truck and jumped in the canoes and paddled the last 12 miles to Victoria, TX. When we went underneath the Hwy 77 Bridge there were some phenomenal log jams stacked up against the bridge pillars. We went under another bridge just below the highway and had to snake through some more log jams where we once again got crossways to the current and logs and went for a swim. I lost my glasses off of my face and some flint chips and petrified wood pieces I had picked off the beach earlier to give to my grandkids. We floated down a few rods and regained our feet, righted the canoe and got it dried out, reloaded and continued on down to Victoria. In total we canoed about 52 miles of the Guadalupe River. We saw at least 3 deer along the way. We heard turkeys every day and saw several Gar surface as we paddled along. I saw one beaver and further downstream, Henry & I saw a tree that had been gnawed on by beavers. I saw some squirrels and two snakes swimming across the river. Both of these were at a distance, for which, I was glad. Rocky had told us about killing two Copperheads while cleaning up debris on his property the week before we camped there. Henry & I saw a small owl sitting on a branch of a Cypress tree about 5 feet above the water. He sat there and watched us paddle by seemingly without a care in the world. We also saw several turkey vultures, Kara Kara vultures and I saw a Bald eagle. We saw some beautiful large old Cypress trees along the river. Many of them were covered with Spanish moss. We saw one huge old Cottonwood tree on our last day. I finally saw some of the wild pigs on our last day as well. There was a sow and 8-9 piglets drinking as we went by and when they noticed us they bolted from the shore and ran up the bank into the forest.
On this trip, I learned that most people in Texas don’t eat Armadillos because they can carry leprosy and when Henry & I mentioned digging for clams we were told they can carry hepatitis, so Cobbler & Cuz were not interested in anything to do with clams. I used my water filter on this trip and the pre-filter bag I had sewn seemed to work very well to remove some of the silt and organics before the water actually contacted the filter itself. For a weapon, I carried my 1808 Harper’s Ferry conversion pistol. It is .54 caliber smoothbore and I carried it loaded with shot for snakes. After the first dunking it fired right away, but I didn’t get it dried out enough before I reloaded and it didn’t fire after the second swim. When we got off the river, I had to pull the charges to get the nipple and barrel clear.
Henry & I left the camp about 4:00 PM Friday afternoon. It is 96°, hazy and humid. It appears that south Texas is in full blown summer already. I saw several farmers cutting hay already here in early May. We stayed at a Day’s Inn in San Antonio Friday night. I brought my pistol into the room and cleaned it in the bathroom sink. It was in dire need of a good cleaning after being dunked in the river twice on this trip.